Today's hectic lifestyle seems to take its toll on humans and their pets. and accidents do happen. Some unscrupulous companies sell a variety of "magic potions" to remedy pet urine problems and get rid of and remove the smell, odor and stain easy. The sad truth is few if any actually work.

I will provide you with a few tips to help yourself and
how we can help as well...

 
  First off, you have to remove as much of the urine contamination as possible as soon as possible. You might want to wear vinyl or rubber gloves. The easiest thing to do is to soak up as much as you can with a clean terry cloth rag. You can find these very inexpensively at Home Depot. A 4 pack runs about $4, they have 20 and 36 packs, but we buy them in 60  packs for about $20. They are 14x17". We suggest you fold them into quarters and soak up as much urine as possible by blotting the spot. This may take more than one cloth. You must soak up as much as possible. After you can soak no more, you can flush it with plain cool water. Pour about 2-8 ounces of water where the stain is, go a bit beyond the stain.
  Say you have a small breed or cat that urinates small amounts, maybe 2 ounces is enough. Maybe you have a large breed and you will need more like 8 ounces. If you have a giant breed, maybe 12 ounces is in order. Basically use as much water as the dog urinated. Blot the water up and get get as much out as possible. Don't rub, blot with a moderate amount of pressure.

  If you have a moderately powerful wet dry vac, you could use this as well. Put the nozzle on the spot and suck it out. Move
 the nozzle and hit the spot several times. The more you get out now, the better. 5 hp would be a good one, 6.5 hp would be even better. Just remember to get as much out as you can. Then wet it and vacuum again.

  To prevent the stain from wicking back up the yarns of the carpet while drying, use a fan to speed up drying. If the stain does wick back up, lightly rub it with damp terry cloth rag. Don't press into the carpet, rather use a slight upward motion as you rub.



  Will this be all you need? Probably not, but if you removed 75% of the urine before it had time to spread to the sub-floor, you have quite possibly saved your floor. The last thing you want to do is let it soak in, spray it with useless perfumes, etc. This will only make the problem worse in the long run.
 
So the problem is bigger than this...
 
  Now it is time to call in a professional. If you call me, you get one of the best in the business. If I can't clean it, it can't be cleaned. I'm not going to attempt to clean it unless I have a high probability of success or you have low expectations and will settle for partial remediation of the problem. I will deliver what I promise and tell you when this is more than just a cleaning issue, because there are times it is more than just cleaning. If more than a little urine is on the carpet, chances are good it is in the sub floor below the carpet pad. We will honestly assess your situation for $25 or less in most cases. Depends on how far you are and how much carpet we have to pull up.
 If there is structural soaking, such as sub floors and walls, we have tools and techniques to seal in odors, 100%, so long as sealants remain undisturbed. This might run into the hundreds for even one room, but it certainly beats $1,000's that could be the potential cost of replacing sub floors and walls, which may be only way to completely eliminate extensive damages.

  A special note about stains from urine. Urine leaves the body slightly acidic, but as it dries and breaks down, it goes to a very high pH, about 13.0, just like ammonia and bleach. Urine stains are often permanent if fibers that have dye on them. Wool and most nylon have dye on the fiber. Some nylon, all polyester and polypropylene (olefin) have dye in the fiber. If the dye is in the fiber, urine has little or no effect on the color. If the dye is on the fiber, urine has a strong effect on dye. Another reason urine has to be removed (not perfumed) immediately. The spots become permanent color change. Like splattering bleach on your clothes, no amount of cleaning will make the dye come back. If it is gone, it is gone. We have a limited amount of experience with color and dye. I might be able to fix color damage.
 Sometime in 2016 I expect to take the IICRC Color & Dye Course. It is a rare event. I need to take it to earn the much coveted Master Textile Cleaner title. Right now I am Journeyman Textile Cleaner. There are no Master Textile Cleaners and few Journeyman Textile Cleaners in the Hudson Valley region. I intend to be the first.
 Only one person teaches it, Ruth Travis, a rug and textile expert from TN. She is the head of the US division of Woolsafe and I have just taken the online course to become certified in the specific care of Wool Carpet and Rugs. Again, nobody in the immediate area has this elite credential and few have it in the broader region. When I say that I'm "one of the best" that is no empty claim, I have the educational certifications that came at great expense and effort to back it up. Nobody else that I know in this area does.


But I saved the good news for last! The moderately priced professional cleaning!

  We can help a lot of people. Perhaps 75% of the time we can achieve 100% success. Perhaps 90% of the time we can achieve 90% success. About 10% of the time, we will tell you your carpet can't be successfully cleaned. Unlike some inexperienced and unscrupulous cleaners, we are going to honestly assess your situation and give you a reasonable estimate of what we can and can't deliver. We will detect urine with black light and moisture meters. The only way to find them all is with both methods. If we clean 7 out of 8 spots in a room, you will still smell urine.
 Sometimes finding all
the spots is hard, but it has to be done. Once we have found all the spots, we need to flush them. Our carpet extractor is 6-8x more powerful than the average wet dry vacuum. We also use a tool called a Water Claw sub-surface extractor.

Without this tool, pet urine remediation is impossible.

  We are going to flush your carpet with plain water and a low pH rinse agent. Dried urine has a very high pH, just like ammonia and it has to be neutralized. Our rinse agent will return your carpet and pad to the pH neutral state it needs to be in. Our machinery allows us to flush carpet and pad with no risk of damage to the sub-floor with many times the water volume you could with a rag or wet dry vac. Once we have flushed your carpet, we will inject small amounts of an enzymatic cleaner that will digest any remaining urine. You can't pour a little here and there, you have to inject it. The Rug Dr. is not a real Doctor! Neither are we, but at least we have the proper tools and training to do the job right.

  After we have injected your carpet, we will perform our standard overall cleaning. We use blowers to help speed drying. If you have fans, we can set them up to continue to help after we are gone. Truth be told, more times than not, soil will wick back up the carpet when it dries after this intensive treatment. Not to worry, the service includes a 2nd house call to do a quick light cleaning of the top of the carpet as either rotary shampoo or bonnet cleaning. These are methods used by fast dry carpet cleaners. It is a great way to touch up or do interim cleaning, but it it is not what should be considered deep cleaning.
 
Let's face it, they will never pee in their favorite water bowl!

Thank you for sticking with us all the way to the end. Good luck. Stay in touch.
Voicemail: We are a small, busy company and you always get to talk to the owner! 845-377-DIRT (3478)


 


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